The Wandering Foodie

The call to prayer rings out into the evening as I climb the steep, winding cobblestone streets to the tram line. A benefit of flying Turkish Airlines to Southern France was that, if you have a 24 hour-plus layover, as I do, they offer a free hotel and a chance to explore Istanbul.

Nevertheless, at this moment I am annoyed, irritated and lost. Trying to find my way to a restaurant recommended by a friend, I hop from tram to bus, feeling unsure of the direction and if I can make it on time.

A little toddler, cute girl, walks about the bus, her mother, her head covered in the traditional Muslim fashion, watching her. She stops in front of me, looking up quizzically at this stranger, this New Yorker who seems a bit out of place in her country. I smile at her. She immediately smiles in return. Suddenly, I relax and breathe. It was going to be alright. I was going to find my way to this restaurant and I was going to enjoy this brief stay in Istanbul.

Sure enough, the bus gets me to my destination, Aheste, a cozy spot with exposed brick set on a quiet side street. I am nervous that I’ve missed my reservation, but the waitress smiles and greets me warmly.

“It is no problem, please take a seat at any of the open tables.”

The meal is well worth the hike. Warm homemade bread with garlic dipping sauce, Persian rice, the flavor popping in my mouth like delightful firecrackers, grilled homemade meatballs and then the main event – slow roasted lamb shoulder, the meat so tender it falls off the bones. This, paired with a cocktail to rival even those found in New York, makes for one of the best meals I’ve had in a while and washes any worry that I wouldn’t enjoy Turkish food.

From there the experience got even better – just 24 hours to explore an ancient city full of history and mystery. That meant the Grand Bazaar, an over 500-year old marketplace of 4,000 different shops, was a must see. The labyrinth of halls are filled with merchants selling colorful Turkish rugs, ceramics, silk scarves, odd trinkets, spices and more. I make the mistake of walking in a shop selling Turkish Delight and am immediately sold hard – the merchant cheerfully showing me around the shop, giving me samples of the famous Turkish treat, along with apple tea and one of my favs – Baklava. Of course, I leave with a box of fig and pomegranate Turkish Delight. I quickly leave for my bus – the Bazaar is the kind of place you could literally spend days, and lots of money, in.

Despite the rough start, the culture shock and adjustment, I am sad to leave so soon, wishing I had more time in the city and looking forward to returning.